Sunday Adobo in Arequipa
I am currently writing from Arequipa where Mariela and I are showing my family Peru. We’re traveling along the tourist circuit of Arequipa, Cusco, and Puno but we have also been able to visit friends and learn more about local cuisine along the way.
Today’s story is from this morning. This is the fastest I’ve ever published a story. Please forgive the typos and check back in a few weeks for more information and tips for adobo.
I was super excited when I realized our trip Arequipa included a Sunday because in the town of Arequipa, Sunday is the day to eat adobo.
Adobo arequipeño is Arequipa’s emblematic pork soup. The exact recipe varies from place to place, and the exact proportions and techniques used are a closely guarded secret, but the ingredients include chicha de jora (fermented corn drink), rocoto (fresh Peruvian pepper), ají panca (dried Peruvian pepper), garlic, onions, oregano, cumin, and other herbs. The other key ingredient is time—the ingredients are simmered together for hours.
Adobo plays an important cultural role as a hangover remedy that starts being served in the wee hours of the morning. There’s an expression, “hasta el adobo” that is exclaimed when going out, meaning that the night is young and we’ll be out until time for adobo to be served. Adobo is also eaten later in the morning as a family affair.
It’s been a while since I’d been in Arequipa on Adobo Sunday. In anticipation, I was trying to what time we should be there to avoid a line. Adobo is mostly eaten for breakfast. I asked a local if there would be a line at 8:30 am. He replied that it wouldn’t be a problem since the line would be at 5 am, as people are returning from a night out.
Adobo is generally served in two sizes, medio (“half”) and completo (full-sized). Be warned that the completo can be quite large, especially if you’re not accustomed to eating savory pork early in the morning.
Adobo is traditionally served with crusty triangular “tres puntas” bread. The bread is such an essential part of the adobo experience that some locals will stop by a bakery on their way to their restaurant and buy a large bag of “tres puntas” bread.
On Sunday, you’ll see chalkboard signs all over the city advertising adobo. However, one of the best to try adobo is Plaza de Cayma. From the middle of the square, you can see at least four places serving adobo.
Today, I took my family to Sabor de Caymeño for adobo and to meet the family that hosted me during my second visit to Arequipa, the visit that opened my eyes (and tastebuds) to the richness of Arequipean cuisine.
Needless to say, the adobo was delicious—richly flavored from the pork broth with complexity from the chicha de jora and pepper. There was a cut of pork with the bone-in each portion. You have to alternate between cutting the pork with a fork and knife and using a spoon to eat the soup. The pork was tender and perfectly cooked.
We noticed that chicharrón and lechon (suckling pig) sandwiches were on the menu. Because chicharrón is a classic breakfast food in Lima but not as popular in Arequipa, we didn’t expect too much. We were pleasantly surprised. Both sandwiches were delicious. Peruvians really know how to do pork for breakfast.
Mariela and I shared a medio and were satisfied. However, I admit that I wanted to go across the street for another medio to compare. Maté is the traditional drink to accompany adobo, but a variety of juices are also available.
Finally, there are starting to be more and more places that serve adobo every day of the week, in case you’re visiting Arequipa on another day of the week.