Cutting Carbs in a Land of Double Carbs

Generosity is an essential aspect of Peruvian cuisine. The basis of this generosity, often manifested in large portion sizes, often comes in the form of carbohydrates.

It only took a few days in Peru to realize that most meals in Peru come with double carbs—rice and potatoes, rice and beans, noodles and rice, bread and rice, and so on. At house parties, if there was another friend and we only saw one carb on the table, I’d conspiratorially whisper to them, “Just wait for it … there’s another carb coming …”

The record was at a local restaurant in Puerto Maldonado where we were served a complimentary basket containing five different kinds of carbs. We couldn’t complain much since it was free, but I didn’t know how people finished a full meal after that basket. In addition to the basket, there was the camote that came with the ceviche and tostones with the grilled fish we ordered.

Count them—six carbs: yucca, plantains, yucca chips, chifles, bread

For most Peruvians, carbs are not an accessory; they are an essential part of the meal and have emotional resonance. Meals don’t feel complete without the carb. Common carbs in Peruvian food include potatoes, rice, beans, corn, yucca, plantains, quinoa, lentils, bread, and noodles.

Many classic dishes prominently declare their carbs in their name, Arroz con Pato (Duck Rice), Papa Rellena (Stuffed Potato), etc.

Other dishes traditionally come with specific carbohydrates. In Arequipa, Rocoto Relleno comes with a Pastel de Papa. The duo are inseparable. You order one and you get the other. Camote, chifles, or yucca accompany ceviche, Aji de Gallina is served with potatoes, Pollo a la Brasa comes with french fries, Anticuchos are served over potatoes, and the list goes on.

Lomo saltado comes with rice and french fries. I once asked a Peruvian friend if I could make Lomo Saltado without the french fries (simply because I wanted to be lazy and not peel potatoes and fry them up). He simply answered, “It’s not Lomo Saltado without the french fries.” I didn’t ask again.

In Peru, carbohydrates are not just relegated to being a side dish. Peru is famously the home to thousands of varieties of potatoes. Thus, it makes sense that there are many dishes where the papa (potato in Quechua) is king—Papa Rellena, Causa Limeña, Papa a la Huancaína, and many more.

It’s not just potatoes. More and more types of carbs are getting their time to shine. Artisan pasta has become almost ubiquitous in buzzworthy restaurants in Lima. One of the restaurants that I’m most excited about trying next time we’re in Lima is Julia Arrocería which prepares exquisite preparations of rice in classic Peruvian and Mediterranean styles.

If you want to fill out a meal, make the dish “a lo pobre” which adds eggs, rice, and plantains. “Tacu Tacu,” a half-moon patty of fried beans and rice” is also another common option¹.

When I first came to Peru, I eagerly accepted the heaping plates. I wanted to try everything once so I ended up confronting a lot of carbs. Nowadays, since I spend much less time walking and more time in front of a computer, I am more resolute about eating less especially in the carb department.

It’s nearly impossible to eat widely in Peru as we do and completely skip carbs. Firstly, waiters don’t understand if you ask them to leave out yucca or potatoes. They think you’re trying to get more meat for free. This then presents the issue of food waste which I admittedly don’t have a perfect answer.

It’s difficult to be strict about not eating carbs in Peru, but it’s very possible to keep it under control. If I’m at someone’s house, I will eat whatever is served, double carb and all. However, when we’re at home, I usually skip the carbs and instead double down on the veggies or the fish.

Higher-end dining will interweave small amounts of carbs in their menu, for example, showcasing regional grains and tubers—just a taste. You can order sashimi at Nikkei restaurants (however I think nigiris are where’s it at). As soon as you start eating in markets or street food, the carbs start piling up. And anyone who has been to a pollería knows that the fries can be hard to resist.

For me, cevicherías are the sweet spot where you have a lot of lower-carb options. We used to order Arroz con Mariscos to go along with our ceviche. I did it because I thought Mariela loved Arroz con Mariscos while she thought I was the one who always wanted it which was probably true. Now, we’ve switched to Parihuela (without the rice) or Sudado (avoiding some of the yucca at the bottom).

I now try to save carbs (especially bread, rice, and pasta) for special occasions or something to enjoy on Sundays rather than making it the default. If I’m going to eat carbs, I’m going to fully enjoy it—Arroz con Mariscos at El Mercado or the crusty tres puntas bread with Sunday Adobo in Arequipa.

Please let me know what you think of this post. I’m trying different things as I work on some more research-intensive stories. You can also try the new Substack direct message feature!

1. Before doing this, I would try to check the portion size first by glancing at the food being served at other tables. Portion sizes are often large to begin with.