Anticuchos, the Heart of Peruvian Street Food

One of the things that I miss the most about being in Peru is anticuchos, the quintessential Peruvian street food. If you find this excerpt useful, consider buying a copy of my guidebook which includes descriptions of over 100 Peruvian dishes and personal restaurant recommendations.

In my opinion, when it comes to anticuchos, the smokier the better (Anticuchos Grimanesa)

What are Anticuchos?

Anticuchos are pieces of cow heart that are skewered, marinated, and then grilled over charcoal. The exact marinade recipe used by each anticuchero (person who cooks anticuchos) is often a closely guarded secret, but the marinade usually involves cumin, vinegar, garlic, and ají.

The way anticuchos are cooked is as important as the ingredients. Working with heart meat and preparing it so that it doesn't end up super tough is an art. There’s an annoying trend in restaurants catering to tourists where anything that is put on a stick is called an “anticucho.” Anticuchos de Corazon is the proper name for the classic anticuchos.

Tips for Finding the Best Anticuchos

Anticuchos can be found in almost any town or city in Peru, especially at night. Here are some tips on how to find good anticuchos wherever you are in Peru.

Anticuchos require specialization for perfection. When you find anticuchos tucked somewhere in the appetizer section of a menu, between causa and ceviche, they are often just included for completeness. The technique for grilling anticuchos is completely different than the techniques for cooking other dishes.

Anticuchos are also best prepared in smoky kitchens which don’t fit well with a nice, sit-down restaurant. I’ve seen places where the anticuchos are cooked outside and the “restaurant” is just for seating.

In summary, anticuchos are typically best at places where:

1. Anticuchos are their focus.

2. The menu is short, sometimes with only one option (anticuchos de corazon)

3. Most of the cooking is done outside.

Of course, there are exceptions. Anticuchos Grimanesa for example has a special grill so that the cooking can be done inside.

How to Order Anticuchos

Anticuchos from Doña Anto

For anticuchos, one of two skewers is typically enough for dinner. Anticuchos typically come with potatoes and a house ají­ sauce (anticuchera sauce or aderezo de anticucho). Some places are stingy about the amount of sauce they give you; don’t be afraid to ask for more. The sauce is so good that it is the basis for other anticuchera dishes where ingredients like octopus are marinated in the sauce and grilled.

Anticuchos are now made with a variety of meats ranging from beef to chicken. When made right, anticuchos de corazón have a divine texture that cannot be matched.

If organ meat makes you squeamish, try to put aside your fear. The heart is a muscle and doesn’t have the same lingering aftertaste that liver or other organ meat typically has.

I rarely drink Inka Kola, but it pairs nicely with anticuchos. I can’t quite explain it. You just gotta try it yourself.

Finally, if you have any room left, picarones are the classic dessert after a meal of anticuchos.

Where to Try Anticuchos

• The story behind Anticuchos Grimanesa is one of the most cherished in Peruvian food lore. Grimanesa Vargas Araujo, also known as Tia Grimanesa, started with a street cart selling anticuchos and eventually built a large following that catapulted her to fame and a restaurant in Miraflores. I generally recommend Anticuchos Grimanesa to those who are new to anticuchos because it caters to locals and tourists alike.

• Our favorite place for anticuchos after a night out is Anticuchos Juancito in Barranco.

• Anticuchos Bran in Surquillo features the anticuchos of Brandon Altamirano who won a competition against 300 other anticucheros.

• Our current overall favorite anticuchos place in Lima is Doña Anto in Magdalena. It’s the real deal—everything there has a certain street food logic. You sit on plastic stools and then are served food on slightly larger plastic stools which are just large enough to fit the skewers, a tub of sauce, and Inka Kola.

• In Cusco, my favorite anticuchos stand is on Avenida del Sol. I’ll provide more specific coordinates during my next trip about a month from now.

• Doña Pochita is where Anthony Bourdain tried anticuchos. It’s walking distance from our place in Lince, but when we went it didn’t have the smoky flavor that we go for. We definitely need to try it again.

Finally, I would recommend writing these down. If I ever put things behind a paywall, this will be amongst the first bits of info that will be for paid subscribers only!